Summer day in Bjelašnica, loneliness and travel in time (BiH)

Once the “most isolated village of Bosnia”, Lukomir probably lost that status when it made it to guide books . If you might be disappointed by the village itself, the splendors of the hike in the Bjelasnica mountain guarantees you won’t regret your trip.

Summer day in Bjelašnica: from Umoljani to Lukomir in pictureS

It took us only 1 hour from Sarajevo to get there. Just 1h from the busy, vibrant capital. And here we were.


At times, it felt like we were in Switzerland. Only the Muslim cemetry to remind us we were not.

umoljani agriculture

In the immediate surroundings of Umoljani village, agriculture at work under the blue skies.


With such a view, difficult to believe that Umoljani -start of the hike- was so closed to Sarajevo.

Rakitnica Canyon

A popular hike of the area follow a part the Rakitnica canyon. Down the 800m cliffs, lies the Rakitnica river, also known as upper Neretva.

Rakitnica canyon

The canyon stretches as far as the eyes can see -over 30km.


After 2,5 – 3h of hike we reached Lukomir (1500m), with its traditional Herzegovina architecture from the XV century. It’s one of the few traditional villages remaining today, since it was spared from war.

Lukomir surroundings

On the way back, walking on the unique road to civilisation – impracticable in winter – the impression of immensity caught me. In the distance, shepherd with flock, similar to snow-flacks on the hills.


Silence and loneliness on the roads of Bjelašnica.

Umoljani fields

Back to civilisation, Umoljani fields under end of afternoon sun.


Organised day trip or go-on-you-own?

It’s possible to skip organised day trips to hike along the Rakitnica canyon and reach Lukomir. In that case make sure to be prepared: rent a car and pack a map -impossible to find tourist information once there- and a bosnian phrase book.  Stay on paths at anytime (risk of land mines).


Want to know more? Here is a great read from The Blonde Gypsy about her trip to Lukomir and how tourism changed the place.

This post is part of a serie about Bosnia Herzegovina.


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